A simple knit top worked from the top down, starting with the collar. This beginner-friendly pattern uses short rows for perfect back and neckline shaping. The fronts and back are worked separately, then stitches are picked up along the front edge and worked in double-knit (hollow) stitch. Finally, the front and back are joined, and knitting continues in the round. Last, stitches are picked up around the armholes to work the sleeves in the round. This easy-to-knit summer garment is a basic top-down tee with clear instructions throughout.
Sizes: XS/S/M/L/XL/2XL/3XL
Size Guide
The top has an oversized fit with approximately 20 cm [7 ¾»] of positive ease, tapering slightly in larger sizes for a more comfortable fit. This means the finished garment will be approximately 20 cm [7 ¾»] larger than your actual bust circumference.
Sizes XS / S / M / L / XL / 2XL / 3XL fit bust circumferences:
80-85 / 85-90 / 90-95 / 95-100 / 100-110 / 110-120 / 120-130 cm
[31½-33½ / 33½-35½ / 35½-37½ / 37½-39½ / 39½-43¼ / 43¼-47¼ / 47¼-51¼»]
Before starting, measure yourself to choose the correct size. For example, if your bust measures 90 cm [35 ½»], you should knit size M. If you are between sizes, choose based on how loose you want the top to fit. The finished garment measurement chart will help you choose your size.
A: 102 / 107 / 112 / 117 / 122 / 130 / 140 cm
[40 ½ / 42 / 44 / 46 / 48 / 51 ¼ / 55″]
B: 52 / 54 / 56 / 58 / 60 / 62 / 64 cm
[20 ½ / 21 ¼ / 22 / 22 ¾ / 23 ½ / 24 ½ / 25 ¼»]
C: 41 / 42 / 45 / 46 / 50 / 52 / 55 cm
[16¼ / 16½ / 17¾ / 18 / 19¾ / 20½ / 21¾»]
Gauge (after washing and blocking)
18 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4″] in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm [US7] needles after washing and blocking.
44 stitches x 52 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4″] in double-knit (hollow) stitch on 3.5 mm [US4] needles after washing and blocking. *Note: The stated gauge accounts for both layers of double-knit stitch. The visible number of stitches and rows for each layer is half the stated amount = 22 stitches x 26 rows.*
Be sure to knit a gauge swatch. Make sure your swatch gauge matches the stated gauge. If you cannot achieve the required gauge with the suggested needle sizes, change to a different needle size to obtain the correct gauge.
Needles
Circular needles:
3.5 mm [US4], 100 cm [40″] length — 2 pairs
4.5 mm [US7], 40, 80, or 100 cm [16, 32, or 40″] length
Double-pointed needles: 4.5 mm [US7]
Recommended Yarn
Option 1: 200 / 200 / 250 / 250 / 250 / 250-300 / 300 / 350 g Boucle by Isager (50 g = 175 m [191 yds]).
Option 2 (knit with 2 strands held together): 150 / 150 / 175 / 175-200 / 200 / 225 / 225-250 g Kid Silk 5 by Gepard Garn (25 g = 100 m [109 yds]) together with 75 / 75 / 75 / 75 / 75 / 75 / 100 / 100 g Cashmere Lace by Gepard Garn (25 g = 350 m [382 yds]).
Option 3 (knit with 2 strands held together): 150 / 150 / 175 / 175-200 / 200 / 225 / 225-250 g Kid Seta by Gepard Garn (25 g = 210 m [230 yds]) or Silk Mohair by Isager (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]).
Other Tools
Stitch markers, waste yarn or stitch holders, contrasting thin yarn, tapestry needle, 3 buttons (15 mm diameter)
Abbreviations — Basic
RS/WS — Right side / Wrong side
BOR — Beginning of round
m1/m2/m3/m4 — Marker 1 / Marker 2 / Marker 3 / Marker 4
Increases
M1BL — Make one backward loop: Wrap the working yarn around the right needle so that the right leg of the loop lies over the front of the needle. Make sure the loop sits snugly on the needle.
M1FL — Make one forward loop: Wrap the working yarn around the right needle so that the left leg of the loop lies over the front of the needle. Make sure the loop sits snugly on the needle.
M1R — Make one right (lifted increase from the strand, leaning right)
M1L — Make one left (lifted increase from the strand, leaning left)
M1PL — Make one purl left (purl lifted increase from the strand, leaning left)
M1PR — Make one purl right (purl lifted increase from the strand, leaning right)
Decreases
K2TOG — Knit two together
P2TOG — Purl two together
SKP — Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
SSK — Slip slip knit (left-leaning decrease)
NECKBAND
The neckband is worked in the round in stockinette stitch using the Magic Loop technique on 3.5 mm [US4] circular needles, 100 cm length.
Cast on 194/202/202/210/210/218/218 stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast-On.
There are 97/101/101/105/105/109/109 stitches on each needle.
Work one circular round as follows:
On the first needle: Knit 4, then add a thin contrasting yarn to the main yarn and knit 89/93/93/97/97/101/101 stitches, holding both yarns together. Cut the contrasting yarn and knit 4 stitches with the working yarn. This will make it easier to find the stitches for further work on the collar.
On the second needle: Knit all stitches.
Work 7 more circular rounds.
Do not cut the yarn, as you will continue working on the yoke from this point later.
COLLAR
The collar is worked back and forth in double-knit (hollow) stitch on 3.5 mm [US4] circular needles, 100 cm [40″] length.
Take a new strand of yarn and pick up 89/93/93/97/97/101/101 stitches along the folded edge of the neckband, using 3.5 mm [US4] 100 cm [40″] circular needles.
Work as follows:
Begin picking up stitches immediately after the first 4 stitches, which will not be worked (from where the contrasting yarn was added). Pick up 1 stitch from each stitch located directly below the row with the contrasting yarn, stopping before the last 4 stitches of that row. As a result of this process, 4 unworked stitches will remain at each end.
Cut the yarn.
Return to the beginning of the row, join the yarn, and work two rows to create the beginning of the double-knit (hollow) stitch as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit 1, M1BL repeat from * to * to the last stitch, end with knit 1.
Row 2 (WS): Slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit 1 repeat from * to * to the last stitch, end with: slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front.
Now you have 177/185/185/193/193/201/201 stitches on your needles.
Continue working in double-knit (hollow) stitch. At the same time, work German short rows, as well as increases to shape the collar.
Note: Work according to the established double-knit (hollow) stitch pattern, where the knit stitch is always worked, and the purl stitch is always slipped with the working yarn in front.
When the instruction says «Turn», this means you should turn the work, slip the first stitch as if to purl and create a double stitch at the turning point. The term «Work n stitches after the last turn» means you should work up to the double stitch created during the turn of the previous row, work that stitch, then continue working the indicated number of stitches after it.
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Work 15 stitches, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Work to the end of the row.
Row 3 (RS): Work 5 stitches, M1FL, 14 stitches after the last turn. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): Work to the last 6 stitches, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, M1BL, 5 stitches.
Row 5 (RS): Work 5 stitches, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit the next increased stitch through the back loop, 14 stitches after the last turn. Turn.
Row 6 (WS): Work to the last 6 stitches, knit the increased stitch through the front loop, and knit 5 stitches.
Row 7 (RS): Work 14 stitches after the last turn. Turn.
Row 8 (WS): Work to the end of the row.
Row 9 (RS): Work 5 stitches, M1FL, work to the end of the row.
Row 10 (WS): Work 14 stitches, turn.
Row 11 (RS): Work to the last 5 stitches, M1BL, 5 stitches.
Row 12 (WS): Work 5 stitches, M1FL, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, 14 stitches after the last turn. Turn.
Row 13 (RS): Work to the last 7 stitches, then knit the increased stitch through the front loop, slip the next increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, and knit 5 stitches.
Row 14 (WS): Work 5 stitches, knit the increased stitch through the back loop, 14 stitches after the last turn. Turn.
Row 15 (RS): Work to the end of the row.
Row 16 (WS): Work 14 stitches after the last turn. Turn.
Row 17 (RS): Work to the last 5 stitches, M1BL, 5 stitches.
Row 18 (WS): Work 5 stitches, M1FL, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, work to the last 6 stitches, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, M1BL and knit 5 stitches.
Row 19 (RS): Work 5 stitches, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit the next increased stitch through the back loop, work to the last 7 stitches, knit the increased stitch through the front loop, slip the next increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front and knit 5 stitches.
Row 20 (WS): Work 5 stitches, knit the increased stitch through the back loop, work to the last 6 stitches, then knit the increased stitch through the front loop and knit 5 stitches.
Row 21 (RS): Work all stitches.
Row 22 (WS): Work all stitches.
Row 23 (RS): Work 5 stitches, M1FL, work to the last 5 stitches, M1BL, 5 stitches.
Row 24 (WS): Work 5 stitches, M1FL, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, work to the last 6 stitches, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, M1BL and knit 5 stitches.
Row 25 (RS): Work 5 stitches, slip the increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit the next increased stitch through the back loop, work to the last 7 stitches, knit the increased stitch through the front loop, slip the next increased stitch as if to purl with yarn in front and knit 5 stitches.
Row 26 (WS): Work 5 stitches, knit the increased stitch through the back loop, work to the last 6 stitches, then knit the increased stitch through the front loop and knit 5 stitches.
Row 27 (RS): Work all stitches.
Row 28 (WS): Work all stitches.
Work rows 23-28 a total of 4 times.
End with a wrong-side row.
Now you have 201/209/209/217/217/225/225 stitches on your needles.
Work 2 more rows in the established pattern and bind off using the Italian bind-off method.
Carefully remove the contrasting yarn.
YOKE
MIDDLE OF ARTICLE (Key + LSI):
Now we continue with this easy knit shirt. The yoke is worked back and forth on 4.5 mm [US7] 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40″] needles. This section provides clear knitting instructions for raglan increases and neck shaping. This beginner-friendly top-down pattern continues here.
Hide all ends and join the neckband. Starting from where you left the yarn, work as follows:
Step 1: Slip 1 stitch as if to purl from the far needle, then knit the stitch from the near needle. Repeat from * to * a total of 9 times. Now you have 18 stitches on the right needle. Transfer them to waste yarn or a stitch holder.
Step 2: K2TOG from both needles (insert the needle into the 1st stitch on the near needle, then insert into the 1st stitch on the far needle and knit both stitches together). Perform K2TOG a total of 79/83/83/87/87/91/91 times.
Step 3: Using a tapestry needle with waste yarn or a stitch holder: slip 1 stitch as if to purl from the near needle, then slip 1 stitch from the far needle. Repeat from * to * a total of 9 times. Set aside these 18 stitches.
Total on needles: 79/83/83/87/87/91/91 stitches.
Work one purl row, placing markers on the needles to mark the back, front, and shoulder stitches as follows:
14/15/15/16/16/17/17 purl (right front), place m4, 12 purl (right shoulder), place m3, 27/29/29/31/31/33/33 purl (back), place m2, 12 purl (left shoulder), place m1, 14/15/15/16/16/17/17 purl (left front).
Work German short rows to shape the back and neckline, while at the same time working increases for the back and front.
Note: Increases are worked in every row on both sides of the shoulder sections, while the total number of stitches on the shoulders remains unchanged. This means that when working each row, you will always work increases:
RS: M1R before and M1L after the shoulder (increases).
*WS: M1PL before and M1PR after the shoulder (purl-side increases).*
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): 14/15/15/16/16/17/17 knit, M1R, slip m1, 12 knit, slip m2, M1L, 4 knit. Turn. (2 stitches added = 1 stitch on left front, 1 stitch on back).
Row 2 (WS): Purl to m2, M1PL, slip m2, 4 purl. Turn. (1 stitch added on back).
Row 3 (RS): Knit to m2, slip m2, M1L, knit to the double stitch, knit the double stitch through the front loop, 4 knit. Turn. (1 stitch added on back).
Row 4 (WS): Purl to m2, M1PL, slip m2, purl to the double stitch, purl the double stitch, 4 purl. Turn. (1 stitch added on back).
Row 5 (RS): Knit to m2, slip m2, M1L, knit to the double stitch, knit the double stitch, knit to m3, M1R, slip m3, 4 knit. Turn. (2 stitches added on back).
Row 6 (WS): Purl to m3, slip m3, M1PR, 4 purl. Turn. (1 stitch added on back).
Row 7 (RS): Knit to m3, M1R, slip m3, knit to the double stitch, knit the double stitch, 4 knit. Turn. (1 stitch added on back).
Row 8 (WS): Purl to m3, slip m3, M1PR, purl to the double stitch, purl the double stitch, 4 purl. Turn. (1 stitch added on back).
Row 9 (RS): Knit to m3, M1R, slip m3, knit to the double stitch, knit the double stitch, 4 knit, slip m4, M1L, 1 knit. Turn. (2 stitches added = 1 stitch on right front, 1 stitch on back).
Row 10 (WS): Purl to m4, M1PL, slip m4, 12 purl, slip m3, M1PR, purl to the double stitch, purl the double stitch, purl to m2, M1PL, slip m2, purl to the double stitch, purl the double stitch, purl to m1, slip m1, M1PR, 2 purl. Turn. (4 stitches added = 1 stitch on right front, 2 stitches on back, 1 stitch on left front).
Row 11 (RS): Knit to m1, M1R, slip m1, 12 knit, slip m2, M1L, knit to m3, M1R, slip m3, 12 knit, slip m4, M1L, knit to the double stitch, knit the double stitch, 1 knit. Turn. (4 stitches added = 1 stitch on each front, 2 stitches on back).
Row 12 (WS): Purl to m4, M1PL, slip m4, 12 purl, slip m3, M1PR, purl to m2, M1PL, slip m2, 12 purl, slip m1, M1PR, purl to the double stitch, purl the double stitch, 1 purl. Turn. (4 stitches added = 1 stitch on each front, 2 stitches on back).
Work rows 11-12 a total of 8 times.
The last turn happens 5/6/6/7/7/8/8 stitches before the end of the purl row.
Short rows are complete.
Work the next 2 rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to m1, M1R, slip m1, 12 knit, slip m2, M1L, knit to m3, M1R, slip m3, 12 knit, slip m4, M1L, knit to the double stitch, knit the double stitch, knit to the end of the row. (4 stitches added = 1 stitch on each front, 2 stitches on back).
Row 2 (WS): Purl to m4, M1PL, slip m4, 12 purl, slip m3, M1PR, purl to m2, M1PL, slip m2, 12 purl, slip m1, M1PR, purl to the double stitch, purl the double stitch, purl to the end of the row. (4 stitches added = 1 stitch on each front, 2 stitches on back).
Now you have 167/171/171/175/175/179/179 stitches on your needles:
75/77/77/79/79/81/81 back stitches,
34/35/35/36/36/37/37 stitches on each front,
12 stitches on each shoulder.
Now work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Work left front stitches (to m1), M1R, slip m1, 12 knit, slip m2, M1L, work back stitches (to m3), M1R, slip m3, 12 knit, slip m4, M1L, work right front stitches. (4 stitches added = 1 stitch on each front, 2 stitches on back).
Row 2 (WS): Work right front stitches (to m4), M1PL, slip m4, 12 purl, slip m3, M1PR, work back stitches (to m2), M1PL, slip m2, 12 purl, slip m1, M1PR, work left front stitches. (4 stitches added = 1 stitch on each front, 2 stitches on back).
Work rows 1-2 a total of 2/2/3/3/4/4/5 times.
Now you have 217/225/229/237/245/257/265 stitches on your needles:
83/85/89/91/95/97/101 back stitches,
38/39/41/42/44/45/47 stitches on each front,
12 stitches on each shoulder.
Do not cut the yarn.
Set aside all stitches except the left front stitches as follows:
Set aside 38/39/41/42/44/45/47 right front stitches, 83/85/89/91/95/97/101 back stitches, and 2×12 stitches of each shoulder separately.
LEFT FRONT
The left front is worked back and forth in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm [US7] circular needles, 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40″] length.
There are 38/39/41/42/44/45/47 left front stitches on the needles.
Work 2 rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): All stitches knit.
Row 2 (WS): All stitches purl.
Now you have 38/39/41/42/44/45/47 stitches on your needles, and you have worked 2 rows.
Now work decreases for armhole shaping as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to the last 5 stitches of the row, K2TOG, knit 3.
Row 2 (WS): All stitches purl.
Row 3 (RS): All stitches knit.
Row 4 (WS): All stitches purl.
Work rows 1-4 a total of 4 times.
Now you have 34/35/37/38/40/41/43 stitches on your needles, and you have worked 18 rows.
Work the next 10/10/12/12/14/14/14 rows as follows:
RS: All stitches knit.
WS: All stitches purl.
Now you have 34/35/37/38/40/41/43 stitches on your needles, and you have worked 28/28/30/30/32/32/32 rows.
Do not cut the yarn, as you will continue working on the front edge.
Set aside the stitches on a stitch holder, or an extra cable, or waste yarn.
LEFT BAND
The left band is worked in double-knit (hollow) stitch back and forth on 3.5 mm [US4] 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40″] circular needles. To make the process easier, it is helpful to use one double-pointed needle of the same size.
Note: Be sure to maintain the stated gauge to avoid an edge that is too tight or too loose.
With the working yarn, pick up purlwise a total of 36/36/40/40/44/44/46 stitches along the front edge as follows:
On the wrong side, pick up as purl the first stitch directly from under the last open stitch of the front. Continue picking up 1 stitch from each row along the front edge.
Do not cut the yarn.
Next, transfer the 18 previously set-aside band stitches to a 3.5 mm [US4] double-pointed needle or any circular needle of the same size and work in double-knit (hollow) stitch as follows: slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit 1, repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Work back and forth in double-knit (hollow) stitch on the 18 edge stitches, adding one stitch from the stitches picked up along the edge in every knit row as follows:
Row 1 (RS): slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit 1 repeat from * to * on the 18 stitches, SKP (one band stitch and one stitch picked up along the edge).
Row 2 (WS): slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit 1 repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Perform rows 1-2 until you have worked all edge stitches.
End after a knit row.
Total on needles: 18 stitches.
Cut the yarn and set aside the stitches, adding them to the already set-aside left front stitches.
BACK
The back is worked back and forth in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm [US7] 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40″] needles.
Transfer all back stitches to the needles.
You have 83/85/89/91/95/97/101 stitches on the needles.
With the right side facing you, join the yarn and work 2 rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): All stitches knit.
Row 2 (WS): All stitches purl.
You have 83/85/89/91/95/97/101 stitches on the needles, and you have worked 2 rows.
Now work decreases for armhole shaping as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit 3, SKP, knit to the last 5 stitches of the row, K2TOG, knit 3.
Row 2 (WS): All stitches purl.
Row 3 (RS): All stitches knit.
Row 4 (WS): All stitches purl.
Work rows 1-4 a total of 4 times.
Now you have 75/77/81/83/87/89/93 stitches on your needles, and you have worked 18 rows.
Work the next 10/10/12/12/14/14/14 rows as follows:
RS: All stitches knit.
WS: All stitches purl.
Now you have 75/77/81/83/87/89/93 stitches on your needles, and you have worked 28/28/30/30/32/32/32 rows.
Next, work increases to shape the armholes.
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit 3, M1L, knit to the last 3 stitches of the row, M1R, knit 3.
Row 2 (WS): All stitches purl.
Work rows 1-2 a total of 6/7/7/8/8/9/10 times.
End after a wrong-side row.
Now you have 87/91/95/99/103/107/113 stitches on your needles, and you have worked 40/42/44/46/48/50/52 rows.
Cut the yarn and set aside the stitches.
RIGHT FRONT
The right front is worked back and forth in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm [US7] 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40″] circular needles.
Transfer all right front stitches to the needles.
You have 38/39/41/42/44/45/47 stitches on the needles.
With the right side facing you, join the yarn and work 2 rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): All stitches knit.
Row 2 (WS): All stitches purl.
You have 38/39/41/42/44/45/47 stitches on the needles, and you have worked 2 rows.
Now work decreases for armhole shaping as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit 3, SSK, knit to the end of the row.
Row 2 (WS): All stitches purl.
Row 3 (RS): All stitches knit.
Row 4 (WS): All stitches purl.
Perform rows 1-4 a total of 4 times.
Now you have 34/35/37/38/40/41/43 stitches on your needles, and you have worked 18 rows.
Work the next 10/10/12/12/14/14/14 rows as follows:
RS: All stitches knit.
WS: All stitches purl.
You have 34/35/37/38/40/41/43 stitches on your needles, and you have worked 28/28/30/30/32/32/32 rows.
Do not cut the yarn, as you will continue working with the piece later.
RIGHT BAND
The right band is worked in double-knit (hollow) stitch back and forth on 3.5 mm [US4] 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40″] circular needles. To make the process easier, it is helpful to use one double-pointed needle of the same size.
Note: Be sure to maintain the stated gauge to avoid an edge that is too tight or too loose.
Join a new yarn and pick up knitwise 36/36/40/40/44/44/46 stitches along the front edge as follows:
On the right side, pick up as knit the first stitch directly from under the last open stitch of the front piece. Continue picking up 1 stitch from each row along the edge.
Do not cut the yarn.
Place markers on the needle to mark the buttonhole positions as follows:
Place the first marker after the 10th picked-up stitch of the row (bottom). Place the second marker before the last two picked-up stitches (top). Then place another marker to divide the remaining stitches in half.
Next, transfer the 18 previously set-aside band stitches to a 3.5 mm [US4] double-pointed needle or any circular needle of the same size and work in double-knit (hollow) stitch as follows: knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Work back and forth in double-knit (hollow) stitch on the 18 edge stitches, adding one stitch from the stitches picked up along the edge in every purl row as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front repeat from * to * on 20 stitches, then P2TOG (one band stitch and one stitch picked up along the edge).
Row 2 (RS): Slip 1 stitch as if to knit with yarn in back, slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Work rows 1-2 until you reach the marker.
End after a wrong-side row.
Then work a buttonhole as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 stitch as if to knit with yarn in back, slip 1 stitch as if to purl with yarn in front, knit 1. Repeat from * to * 4 times (you have worked 9 stitches). Turn.
Row 2 (WS): Work 8 stitches in the established pattern, P2TOG. Turn.
Work rows 1-2 a total of 2 times.
Row 5 (RS): Work 9 stitches in the established pattern, then cast on 2 stitches by wrapping the yarn clockwise around the right needle, and continue working in the established pattern to the end of the row. Turn.
Row 6 (WS): Work the first 8 stitches in the established pattern, then slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit the first cast-on stitch through the back loop and pass the slipped stitch over the just-worked stitch. Turn.
Row 7 (RS): Work 9 stitches in the established pattern. Turn.
Perform rows 6-7 a total of 2 times.
Row 10 (WS): Work the first 8 stitches in the established pattern, then slip 1 stitch as if to knit, M1R and pass the slipped stitch over the just-made increase, and work to the last stitch of the 18, then P2TOG.
Work in double-knit (hollow) stitch, simultaneously working buttonholes, until you have worked all stitches picked up along the edge.
End after a wrong-side row.
Total on needles: 18 stitches.
Cut the yarn and transfer the stitches to the main needles (with the right front stitches).
FRONT
The front is worked back and forth in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm [US7] 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40″] circular needles.
Note: Before starting, transfer the left front stitches to extra needles of the same or smaller size than the main needles.
Now you have 52/53/55/56/58/59/61 stitches on each set of needles.
With the right side facing you, starting from where you left the yarn, join the two front pieces as follows:
Step 1: Knit 3, M1L, knit to the last 20 stitches.
Step 2: Fold the bands so that the right band is on top.
Step 3: Slip 2 stitches as if to knit (main needle), then K2TOG (far needle). Pass the slipped stitches over the worked stitch. Repeat 9 more times.
Step 4: Knit to the last 3 stitches (on the far needle), M1R, knit 3.
Now you have 89/93/95/99/103/109/113 stitches on your needles.
Work 1 purl row.
Next, work increases to shape the armhole.
Row 1 (RS): Knit 3, M1L, knit to the last 3 stitches of the row, M1R, knit 3.
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Work rows 1-2 a total of 5/6/6/7/7/8/9 times.
End after a wrong-side row.
Now you have 86/90/94/98/102/106/112 stitches on your needles.
Do not cut the yarn.
BODY
The body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm [US7] 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40″] circular needles.
Join the front and back as follows:
Knit all front stitches (86/90/94/98/102/106/112 stitches), cast on 5/5/7/7/9/11/13 stitches using the backward loop method continuing from the front, knit all back stitches (87/91/95/99/103/107/113 stitches), cast on 5/5/7/7/9/11/13 stitches using the same method continuing from the back. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round (BOR).
Now you have 183/191/203/211/223/235/251 stitches on your needles.
Knit straight in the round until the top measures approximately 52/54/56/58/60/62/64 cm [20 ½ / 21 ¼ / 22 / 22 ¾ / 23 ½ / 24 ½ / 25 ¼»] from the center back edge (before the collar) — or to your desired length.
Note: Additional yarn may be needed to increase the length of the garment.
Try on the garment and check the length before binding off.
Bind off using the I-cord technique.
Step 1: Cast on 3 stitches onto the left needle using a contrasting waste yarn and your preferred temporary cast-on method (I use a crochet chain cast-on). Cut the contrasting yarn.
Step 2: Knit these 3 stitches with the main yarn.
Step 3: Return the 3 just-knitted stitches to the left needle.
Step 4: Knit 2, SKP (the first of the cast-on stitches and one stitch from the needle).
Step 5: Return the 3 just-knitted stitches to the left needle.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 until there are 4 stitches left on the needle.
Cut the yarn, leaving a 25 cm tail.
For a seamless finish, graft the open I-cord stitches with the open stitches of the temporary cast-on using the Kitchener stitch with a tapestry needle.
SLEEVES
The sleeves are worked in the round in stockinette stitch with decreases toward the cuff on 4.5 mm [US7] 40 cm [16″] circular needles.
Transfer the 12 shoulder stitches to 4.5 mm [US7] 40 cm [16″] circular needles.
With the right side facing you, starting to the left of the shoulder stitches, join the yarn, pick up 29/30/32/33/35/36/38 stitches along the first part of the armhole (2 stitches for every 3 rows). Next, pick up 6/6/8/8/10/12/14 stitches from the underarm. Then pick up 29/30/32/33/35/36/38 stitches along the second part of the armhole (2 stitches for every 3 rows). Finally, knit the 12 shoulder stitches.
Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round (BOR).
Place another marker to serve as the center marker between the 6/6/8/8/10/12/14 stitches picked up in the underarm area.
You have 76/78/84/86/92/96/102 stitches on your needles.
Work German short rows to shape the sleeve cap.
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit 2, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to the BOR marker, slip the BOR marker, purl 14. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit 2 stitches after the last turn. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): Purl 2 stitches after the last turn. Turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 another 13/13/14/15/16/16/17 times.
Your last turn is 4/5/6/5/6/8/9 stitches before the center marker on the purl row.
Now join the work in the round as follows:
Knit all stitches before the last turn, then knit the first double stitch as usual, knit 4/5/6/5/6/8/9, slip the center marker, knit 4/5/6/5/6/8/9, work the next double stitch through the back loop, then knit all stitches to the BOR marker.
Knit in the round until the sleeve length measures approximately 13-15 cm [5-6″] from the underarm, while at the same time working decreases every 7th/6th/6th/6th/5th/5th/5th round a total of 4/5/5/5/6/6/7 times.
The decrease round is worked as follows: knit to the center marker, K2TOG, slip the marker, SSK, knit to BOR, K2TOG. (2 stitches decreased).
Total on needles: 68/68/74/76/80/84/88 stitches after all decreases have been worked.
Try on the top and check the sleeve length before binding off.
Bind off using the I-cord technique, the same as on the body.
Work the second sleeve identically.
FINISHING
Hide all ends. Wash and block the garment. Congratulations — you have completed this easy knit top pattern! This simple knit top is perfect for warm weather. This basic top-down tee with clear knitting instructions makes a wonderful addition to your handmade wardrobe. Thank you for knitting this easy-to-knit summer garment — we hope you enjoyed every step of this easy knit top pattern.
